Hello August! A month dedicated to well-deserved getaways, picnics at the beach, county fairs, dog days, hot (August) nights, cruising with the top down, rodeos, reunions and reunion tours. It’s all here: the stone fruits, the peppers, the melons, the tomatoes, the berries, the magic. Dig on in. And get out of town.
WATERMELON: According to my favorite old-school produce guy, Joe Carcione, in Naples it’s said that watermelon is “the only way to eat, drink and wash your face at the same time.” They’re so close to perfect on their own that it’s challenging to do much else with them, although pairing them with a salty feta cheese is classic, they’re pretty tasty in an agua fresca, and this summer it seems that grilled watermelon is having its moment. This month I’ll be pickling the watermelon rind, inspired by the southern classic.
THIS MONTH: GRILLED HALIBUT WITH WATERMELON PICKLES AND WATERCRESS
CRANBERRY BEANS, also known as shell beans or borlotti, have a gorgeous pink and white speckle to them that is (sadly) lost during cooking. What’s not lost is their nutty flavor and all of the nutrients you’d expect from a bean. (Protein and fiber, of course!). You can use them where you would any shell bean: in soups, stews, with chicken and meats, or in dense summer salads.
THIS MONTH: FRESH CRANBERRY BEAN HUMMUS
CHERVIL‘s lacy green leaves are not unlike the green tops of carrots, to which they’re related. This delicate herb is one of the four classic herbs that comprise herbes fines of French cooking. It has a subtle fennel flavor with notes of parsley and is great with fish, eggs and dishes that would benefit from a touch of anise.
THIS MONTH: FRESH CRANBERRY BEAN HUMMUS
BLACKBERRIES are one of the most invasive and aggressive weeds of North America. But the lovely, tart-sweet, super juicy berries are a happy reward for their thorns and brutish tendencies. There is really nothing comparable to blackberries fresh off the vine; those in supermarkets are often picked before they’re ripe, and retain a tartness that does little justice to a vine-ripened berry. Like raspberries, blackberries are drupelets and are members of the rose family, hence their brambles, thorns and wild rose-like flowers. Perhaps you’d like to read about my blackberry jam-making adventures with a rice cooker in a rural motel in Idaho last summer.
THIS MONTH: PEACH BERRY CRISP
TOMATILLO: A relative of the tomato in the nightshade family, tomatillos possess a sharp, tart flavor that is a welcome element in their most-known incarnation, salsa verde. They are recognized by their brownish, papery husk and bright green color, though they can ripen to shades of yellow and red but are rarely used that way. Partner them with an avocado for a sharp, vibrant salsa, as we’ll do this month.
THIS MONTH: SALSA VERDE WITH AVOCADO
PACIFIC HALIBUT: Firm-fleshed and faintly sweet, halibut is an easy fish to love. It’s nutrient-rich (low in fat, high in minerals) and decidedly un-fishy, making it a great choice for people with reservations about seafood. (Not us, right?) In the sea, they’re aggressive and un-picky eaters, consuming any bottom-dweller with gusto. Due to overfishing and habitat depletion from poor fishing practices, Atlantic halibut should be avoided. Look for any halibut from California, Alaska, Washington, or British Columbia. Also check out SirenSeaSA, an awesome and entertaining wealth of information about halibut and other sustainable seafood.
THIS MONTH: GRILLED HALIBUT WITH WATERMELON PICKLES AND WATERCRESS
WATERCRESS grows wild along the banks of streams and creeks, and has come to be known best for its role in manicured tea-time sandwiches. But it’s a versatile green, possessing a bite not unlike arugula, and can be paired with fish, roast beef, or tossed in salads. It’s related to nasturtium, which accounts for the peppery flavors of both.
THIS MONTH: GRILLED HALIBUT WITH WATERMELON PICKLES AND WATERCRESS
The YELLOW PEACH has an intense, floral fragrance that is a great indicator of its ripeness. In fact, I just learned that many of those small, finger-sized bruises on the skin of a peach are due to our habit of squeezing them to determine their state. Apparently this is a no-no. Peaches come to us from China; there are over 2,000 varieties. The yellow peach tends to be juicier and softer-fleshed than white varieties of peach, making it great for eating out of hand or preserving. We all know the peach’s pride of place in summery baked desserts or alongside a scoop of vanilla ice cream; they’re also great in chutneys, served with pork or grilled on the barbeque.
THIS MONTH: PEACH BERRY CRISP
by Kimberley
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